I’ve decided to call it a day with the blog for a while, but if you’re interested in seeing what I’m up to, just keep an eye on this page:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/marcreid/sets/
(Whatever set is in the top left corner, that’s where I am; or have just been)
Cheers for now…
Beijing Olympics:
I finally got hold of a Chinese visa from the lovely folks at the Chinese embassy in Uzbekistan… amazingly with same day processing; so then headed over to Beijing to enjoy the festivities. It was a really great time, Beijing was in first class shape; excellent transportation, extremely clean, tons of volunteers (160k to be exact) all keen to help out, and you could even buy a beer in the world class stadium (the Berd’s Nest) for the princely sum of about 40p!
We managed to get tickets for a few events:
South China:
I’m now traveling in the south of China – Shanghai, some rural villages around Wuyuan, and presently Hong Kong… where I am enjoying the comfortable Western shops and lifestyle… but not the Western prices :-s
I’m awaiting another Chinese visa and then I’ll head back to the mainland to see some more countryside like Guilin and Yangshou where there are beautiful rice terraces… then maybe on to South East Asia.
From Samarkand in Uzbekistan I crossed to Penjikent and went to the Fan Mountains for a few days staying with a local Tajik family there. The scenery was really nice and the homestay was really relaxed and comfortable… with apricot trees growing around the house, so very fresh fruit every day!
From there to the pleasant but not inspiring capital of Dushanbe, where I tried to get a Chinese visa… no joy so on to Khorog in the middle of the country and at the start of the Pamir region. The drive took us along the border with Afghanistan with some good views of Afgan villages across the river.
From Khorog I made a trip up to the lovely Geisev Valley and then a tour of the Wakhan Valley – a beautiful part of the country with small villages, remnants old forts, and great natural hot springs. We were also lucky to be in Ishkashim on a Saturday so could go to the Afghan market…. Most Saturdays there is a market that takes place in the no-mans-land between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. You technically leave Tajikistan, handing over your passport at the border gate (of the bridge crossing the river to Afghanistan), cross the bridge and enter the market. You can stay for the duration of the market then head back across the bridge and (hopefully!) retrieve your passport and re-enter Tajikistan – no stamps required. The produce is nothing special (except the Afghan hats!) but it’s interesting to meet the Afghan people and see their traditional wear etc. The dramatic mountain backdrop makes for an extra special experience. This was the highlight of the Wakhan valley for me.
Finally on to Murgab… a fairly edgy town with a tough feel to it. It sits at about 3,600 metres and has no piped drinking water (all trucked in to the town), but the scenery is fairly dramatic and the drive out to Kyrgyzstan is pretty special.
I’m currently sitting in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan wondering how I can get a Chinese visa … I’m still hopeful, but if it doesn’t work out I could be taking a random plane journey to somewhere else….
Quite a special country in Central Asia as it is the most difficult to visit and requires (unless you are transiting only) a goverment approved tour guide to be with you at all times (except for the capital Ashgabat).
I signed up for a 6 day tour and saw some pretty uniques sites. The ruins of Kunye-Urgench, the Darvaza gas crater (a great whole in the ground in the middle of the desert with flames coming out of it!), the colourful shiny new capital of Ashgabat, and the ancient ruins of Merv.
Topped of with an incredible meal (and home disco!) at the family of our driver in the town of Mary.
From Osh, I crossed the border to Uzbekistan and on to Fergana – a lvoely quietish town with a friendly feel to it. After a day trip to the Yodgorlik Silk factory, where the process of extracting silk from cocoons was demonstrated, I headed on to the capital Tashkent.
A quick flight to Urgench then on to the old city of Khiva (Xiva). A very scenic, if somewhat touristy, small town with old fort walls and a host of achitectural gems. Then up to Nukus and on to Moynaq, a once thriving city with a whole industry based around the Aral Sea, which has shrunk so much the shore is now some 150km from the town.
After making a horseshoe tour of Turkmenistan I crossed back into Uzbekistan and on to Bukhara, a larger collection of medressas, and mosques. And finally on to Samarkand for more superlatives of Central Asian architecture.
From Karakol in the north I took a 4 day hike around the valley which took in some of the most beautiful scenery on the trip so far – snow capped peaks, alpine lakes and lush green valleys.
There was a fair amount of hanging out a the Nomad’s Home hostel in Bishkek to recover from the resulting knee strain from the hike!
Osh in the south had a great bazaar and a much more Central Asian feel to it. I was very luck to be invited to a local family dinner there where I had “dimlyama” – along with a huge spread of other foods…very tasty!
After flying from Olgii (in west Mongolia) to Oskeman (a.k.a. Ust Kamenogorsk) in the N.E of Kazakhstan, I went into the hills for a few days and found myself helpiung some Russian Kazakhs tear down some wooden holiday homes. Camping and waaaaaay too much vodka.
Then traveled to Almaty - a very cosmopolitan and relaxing ex-capital (the new one being Astana in the North, as of the late 90’s).
A few days in Ugam National park – staying with a local family (the father of which, Daul, was my guide for the park) – lots of local food (and Kazakh Cognac!) and great views.
Finally a day in Turkestan further west, the most holy city for Muslims in Kazakhstan. Apparently three visits here is the equivalent as going to Mecca.
9 day tour around central Mongolia – huge open and mostly empty expanses of rolling plains. Friendly locals and lots of salty chai!
5 days in West Mongolia where I had a day tour around Khovd with some really friendly locals, then on to Olgii where I met a Kazakh family that use eagles for hunting.
Lake Baikal… the single largest container of fresh water in the world – it holds about a 5th of it, more than all of the Great Lakes of North America combined, and without a doubt the most amazing place I have seen in Russia. It was great to get out of the cities and to see some amazing Russian scenery. The ice was just starting to break up so it was an interesting time to be there with the contrast between the dark blue water and the bright ice. From the north of the island it looked like a great salt lake stretching out to the horizon…really beautiful. I stayed at a great guest house there (Nikita’s Guesthouse), though it’s really more of a small community… loads of carefully crafted wood cabins with a central dining area, great for meeting other travelers.
Then the final Russian train across the border to Mongolia… I set off on a 9 day tour tomorrow to the center of the country…
Bears wondering the streets and 6 foot of snow and ice all around!… well not really.
After a brief stop in snowy Yekateringburg - the dividing line from Europe to Asia, I headed on to Tomsk. A university town (with 8 universities, I think) it has a vibrant and young feel to it. I have been hanging out with a small group of students here and experienceing the very best of Russian hospitality – a place to stay, tours of the city, with its famous wooden architecture, and local area such as the small villiage of Kolorovo to see the Dachas (with a side trip to Tomsk airport!) and needless to say a drop or two of Russian vodka!… happy days indeed. A huge balshoi spaceeba to Mark, Alex, Katya, Kirill, and Anton for looking after me so well… I hope we meet again one day!
